FNFT: Destination O’Bryonville

O’Bryonville holds a special place in my heart because it was the first place I chose to live in Cincinnati. I moved to Cincy for a job, never having been here before. My employer kindly housed me in a suburban corporate apartment for 3 months with my cat while I looked for a new home base. I was 24.

Once I chose O’Bryonville, since I didn’t know anyone yet, I spent countless hours when I wasn’t working, walking. I walked throughout all of the nearby historic neighborhoods and pocket-sized main streets, visiting the shops and eateries, trekking home with bouquets along with pastries and baguettes that I would eat on warm evenings on my fire escape. It has become my preferred way of exploring an area: on foot, and if you know me, you know I usually come back from my explorations with a bag of pastries or a treasure from a new find.

Elbowed between Madison and Grandin Roads and Torrence Parkway, the history of O’Bryonville, like so many pocket neighborhoods around Cincinnati, started as a rural escape, outside of but near near the booming metropolis. In the 1830’s, the Irish O’Bryon family purchased 72 acres to farm on the south side of Madisonville Pike east of East Walnut Hills, which also attracted other mostly-Irish families who christened it, “O’Bryonville.” 35 years later, the nearby land was subdivided into small plots where tradesmen and other families could establish themselves and the area became a proper business and residential community, including an early Kroger Grocery.

Kroger is one of the business cornerstones of Cincinnati – founded by a German-American Cincinnati native and son of grocers, BH (Barney) Kroger, who started his first, innovative 1-stop, fresh and affordable grocery in Cincinnati in 1883 with his life savings of $372 and the motto: “Be particular. Never sell anything you would not want yourself.” He even baked the bread he sold himself. Today there are 2800 stores in 35 states. Mic drop, Mr. K.

In O’Bryonville, I rented an apartment on Madison road, an historic brick studio with a fire escape, street parking and a beautiful sunny sunroom where I kept the first plants I ever bought, ficus trees that I had for over 20 years (one of which I still have). O’B is a blink-and-you-miss-it peekaboo community that is centered by grand-dame bakery and Cincinnati darling (and home of the ridiculously great Opera Cream Cake), the nearly 40-year old BonBonerie Bakery and tea room. The Bonbonerie features seated tea and lunch and a prolific and gorgeous and delicious array of unforgettable pastry decadence. (Fun fact: there is a lovely nod to this sweet spot in Madeira local (and Hogan family favorite children’s lit author/Illustrator) Loren Long’s illustrations of the bunny village in Margaret Wise Brown’s Good Day, Good Night: the BonBunnerie.)

Today in O’Bryonville, there’s an eclectic collection of shops: hemp, antique, art galleries, running shoes and the staples of coffee, beer, bakery and food as well as peripheral businesses and the 10-acre Owl’s Nest park giving it a well-rounded offering with historical character and context. O’B is a stone’s throw from Hyde Park, East Walnut Hills, the Hyde Park Country club and Golf course and the Summit Country Day School. But let’s get back too Food & drinks!

First stop drink #1: O’Bryon’s Bar and Grill, Cincinnati

For this edition of Friday Night Field Trip, John and I came back, on this rainy fall Friday to sample the culinary wares of this happy-memory spot (when we met, I lived here, and he proposed to me in O’Bryonville at the now much-missed Chateau Pomije). The BonBonerie closes at 4, so we missed that, but we decided to start by hitting a pub that has been there at least since I was 24…so, just a few years ;)… O’Bryon’s.

O’Bryon’s was a spot where I would occasionally hang out after work with Hyde Park & Mount Lookout based co-workers before and then with John, and I hadn’t been back since we got married and moved away in 2000. It’s a quintessential neighborhood sports bar with a cozy/loud wood-bar-in-a-brick-building vibe and a fun second floor patio on nice days. John and I ducked out of the rain after figuring out how to pay to park in O’B (why are there so many different apps for that?!) and squeezed in to the last table in the place. We savored the warmth and a couple of on-vibe nice cold domestic drafts along with the memories, but before we could be lured in by the tots or notable wings, we moved on. Thanks for the fond memories O’Bryon’s!

Next stop drink #2: Bean & Barley Coffeehouse and Taproom: “Come for the coffee, Stay for the Beer”

The beautiful thing about a small neighborhood is short travel times; in just a heads-ducked-against-the-rain jog across the street we were inside Bean & Barley Coffeehouse and Taproom. This place is a unique concept and is an industrious and innovative hedge against the off-hours of a bar (morning) and coffee shop (night).

Bean & Barley was conceived when the owners of Columbus-based Grandview Grind and The Ohio Taproom were presented with the opportunity of a space in O’Bryonville. The shop has lots of space including outdoor space (which we declined to visit because of the weather) and they focus on “celebrat(ing) the craftsmanship of local (Ohio, Kentucky and Indiana) coffee roasters, brewers, bakers, and artists.” 

It’s a simple, clean, renovated industriali-ish space with bright paintings up on the wall, a large hanging menu of their many craft beers on the right side of the place (the bar) and on the left side a barista HQ where I’m guessing they also sell baked goods to the morning crowd. We were at B&B at night so we visited the bar side and I went with wine because the drink I wanted from the menu online was now off-season. John chose from the current cocktail list to try what is truly unique to B&B – they integrate coffee or tea into most of the cocktails on their menu. John had the Roman Winter including gin and cold-brewed campari – kind of a stretch for him, but he liked it! It is clearly a neighborhood bar, with plenty of young regulars – I think a group of them was gearing up for a rainy night of friendly poker downstairs as we were leaving – glad to see new businesses investing in the friendly O’Bryonville vibe.

Last stop, dinner: Pampas Argentine Gastropub

Ok, this place is wonderful. Named after the vast grassland farm country in Argentina, Pampas Gastropub is a love letter to Juan Imeroni’s youthful summers with his grandfather in his native Argentina, with a focus on curated, rustic Argentine dishes with local ingredients and just the right amount of culinary sophistication. Our visit here started out with the gregarious and sweet host chatting fashion picks (their side hustle), and making us comfortable. I can’t say enough about the influence of what happens at the front of the house on a diner’s night. We were made to feel welcome, like we were in the generous kitchen of family.

We found a seat at the lovely white marble bar and soaked in the rich chaos of the decor that sways between classic European vintage and pampas gaucho boss. It was a cold night, but there was warmth from a fire roaring in the fireplace, from the lamps, pendants and chandeliers around us, as well as from the patrons seated nearby. Our bartenders were just the right combination of indulgent and expedient but also engaging and enjoyable. Another really influential element in the experience of a diner: when you eat at the bar, you’re practically dining with the bartender, it’s so lovely when they’re good company.

Another really influential element in the experience of a diner: when you eat at the bar, you’re practically dining with the bartender, it’s so lovely when they’re good company.

From the cocktail list, I chose the lovely Argentini (when I couldn’t decide on a cocktail, the bartender gave me a tiny sample of a gorgeous blackberry one, as well as of the Los Apostoles gin that was in my drink – part of why they were awesome) and John had his preferred martini. for dinner we had a tasty Bonanza cab with my perfect Faroe Salmon and John’s lovely chimichurri & chorizo Chop. Delish all around.

Next visit to O’B we plan to visit their sister restaurant Che next door too (M-Sa 3:30-11), they have Empanadas (several of Imeroni’s Ignite Entertainment establishments have their tasty empanadas on the menu – including Butcher and Barrel, Che, and View at Squires Garden). Ignite is another great hospitality group that is fully invested in the Cincinnati area (also including Lola’s, Blind Pig, Kon Tiki, etc.) gotta appreciate that. Thanks for a great night, Pampas.

We’ll be back, O’Bryonville!

Until next Friday, Cheers!

Places mentioned in this edition of FNFT:
O’Bryon’s Bar & Grill: 1998 Madison Rd. Cincinnati, obryonsirishpub.com
Bean & Barley: 2005 Madison Rd., beanandbarley.co
Pampas Argentine Gastropub: 2038 Madison Rd., pampascincinnati.com
Special mention: The BonBonerie: 2030 Madison Rd., bonbonerie.com

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