On this rainy Friday, we hopped down to a little square on the southeastern riverside corner of Cincinnati. It’s possible you have just driven right by this little historical downtown Cincinnati jewel – or under it, as it were.

The Lytle Park area is rich with history. The history of this little area is also the story of the beginnings of Cincinnati (and now you get to discover how big of a geek I am for this stuff).

• Originally a hardwood forest, a party of pioneers led by Captain William Lytle made camp on this site.
• In 1780, his party fought the Native Americans here for the prize of this land (one-day Cincinnati, before that, Losantiville).
• In 1789, Fort Washington was constructed in this area to defend the early Ohio/Licking riverfront settlements and as a staging area and conduit to the settlement of the Northwest Territory.
• In 1809, now General Lytle (first Surveyor General of the Northwestern Territory and the state of Ohio) built his family home where the 2.31 acre Lytle Park between now exists.
• In 1820, Martin Baum built his mansion nearby in Lytle square. His home was later sold to the Nicholas Longworth (an eccentric millionaire who always did his own gardening), then David Sinton whose daughter Anna married and lived there with her husband Charles Phelps Taft.
• The Taft mansion (where Charle’s half brother President Willaim Howard Taft accepted his 1908 Presidential nomination) was later declared a National Historic Landmark, due in large part to the important pre-civil war landscape murals painted on the plaster walls within by acclaimed African-American artist Robert S. Duncanson. (After the Tafts’ deaths, the home was bequeathed as an intact museum to the city of Cincinnati. The Taft Museum opened in 1932.)
• In 1905 the land known as Lytle Square was purchased by the City of Cincinnati.
• in 1917, George Gray Bernard was commissioned to make the 11-foot bronze statue of Abraham Lincoln entitled “Lincoln – The Man,” in which Lincoln is controversially shown as beardless, slouched and weary, by Mr. and Mrs. Charles Phelps Taft. The sculpture was dedicated to the City by President Taft and placed in Lytle Park to commemorate the centenary of Lincoln’s birth.

For such a small place, Lytle Park has many cool historic features, including the statue of Mr. Lincoln, a display of flags that trace the history of the Stars and Stripes, an ornamental wall with plaques depicting historic events that have occurred on this site, the 1921 U.S. Marine Corps monument, the Michael Mullen bandstand, used for free concerts for the public, and impressive rotating floral displays that change with the seasons.

The Park is surrounded by historic buildings with new purposes:

• The Taft mansion, now Museum (do go visit!),
• The Lytle Park Hotel (formerly the Anna Louise Inn donated by the Phelps Tafts in 1909 as accommodations for women from rural areas who were coming to Cincinnati to work.)
• The Earls building next door (built in 1919 as residences for the rector of Christ Church and the director of the Anna Louise Inn),
• The Phelps Building (built by Phelps Taft to keep affluent citizens in the city – now a Residence Inn, complete with Top of the Park rooftop bar),
• The still male-only Literary Club of Cincinnati (founded 1849, ironically by a women’s rights activist),
• Lytle Park proper – it’s now above today’s Fort Washington Way (the first park located above an interstate). That part of I-71 was named to mark the fort when its remains were unearthed during construction of the highway. A replica blockhouse and marker on Fourth Street commemorate the site of the original fort.

In 1976, the buildings around Lytle park were declared the Lytle Park Historic District, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, filled with remaining early Cincinnati elite residential examples of Georgian, Greek Revival and Italianate architecture.

First Stop: Drinks at Vista at Lytle Park

I found out about this FNFT’s restaurant (Subito) in the Lytle Park Hotel by accident when searching for Italian food downtown. We stuck to the building for both FNFT stops on this Friday because it was raining. There are other Italian places in downtown Cincy (some amazing ones) but John and I are suckers for a place with an awesome view. When we discovered Subito’s home had such a thing upstairs and it identified as a bar, we were all in.

Making a gorgeous first impression, the hotel lobby and bar are colorful, beautiful, luxurious and warm. Giving them even more points in my estimation was the immediately identifiable yet simple Rookwood fountain by the elevators that is noted to have been part of the original building here (the 1909 Anna Louise Inn women’s housing) and discovered during its renovation.

Vista is said to be the largest (5000 sq. ft.) and only 4-season rooftop bar in Cincinnati with beautiful panoramic views of the city. Is that possibly true? I don’t know but it is indeed a convertible palace of glass with 360 degrees of views. All of the glass walls and windows can be opened. We were there on the aforementioned rainy evening when the glass was shut but the views were all still there. When there was a break in the rain, we popped outside and took in the sights from the edges of the roof and checked ou the couch/fireplace seating that is outside of the glass walls.

There is a handsome tiled bar and a great seasonal cocktail list, and even though you are semi-outside, the drinks are still graciously served in glassware.

Um, they also have gorgeous bathrooms. I am one who appreciates the designers who make an investment in the small stuff.

I had the Rosemarino cocktail: botanist gin, st germain, burnt rosemary. It’s like they made it with me in mind. John had the Prima – Clooney’s tequila with cinnamon and egg white. Edgy. Edgier still as a choice for John… and delicious you clever mixers. We stopped at that because we had a table reserved downstairs. So, so enjoyable.

Next Stop: Dinner at Subito

It was not a tough commute from Vista to Subito, just a smooth trip down the elevator shaft, so even though we only had 10 minutes before our reservation when we left the bar, we got there with 9 minutes to spare. We perched at the lovely lobby bar while we waited and ordered their mule.

When we were shown to our table – one of the blue banquettes under the lemons, we ordered up. Here, lo and behold, after all these many FNFT’s John *finally* got his Guinness (harp music here, or maybe bagpipes).

Subito is an Italian term, generally used in a musical context to indicate the tempo quickens. And yes, things were generally quick here, in a good way. We ordered some fabulous carpaccio, which our waiter said people rarely order (pun is mine… and intended) their loss, it was lovely. We also got their bread service that came with tasty honey butter and a clever pourable bacon butter. My dinner was a delicious seared scallop dish and because it was so good, I can’t even remember what John ordered. Just kidding, he got the saltimbocca, which he had never before tried and he absolutely loved it. Wine accompanied and warmed us – it was a little chilly in there!

It was a wonderful time from beginning to end – bright and lovely despite the rain. Note to self – return to the Vista on a warm summer evening! Other note to self… this would also be a sweet little overnight spot for an anniversary or friends weekend.

Until next Friday… Cheers!

Vista, Subito, The Lytle Park Hotel, 311 Pike Street, Cincinnati